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The FlyWeb
insect light is designed for use indoors in residential and
commercial areas. Its compact size and direct plug-in features
allow the light to be placed in any outlet. The FlyWeb insect
light uses an insect attracting lamp to lure insects to the
adhesive trapping board. When the glueboard is full of insects,
simply remove, discard and replace with a new adhesive trapping
board.
The FlyWeb insect light will lure and
capture the house fly, fruit fly, cluster fly, face fly, phorid
flies, bottle flies, drain flies, mosquitoes, fungus gnats, moth
flies, moths, asian beetles, yellowjackets and other flying
insects.
Since 1928, Gardner has
pioneered the manufacture of insect light traps for
commercial and industrial applications. This same highly
effective insect control technology is now available for
bars, restaurants and homeowners, too. If you’re tired of
swatting annoying flying insects, there’s good news from
the people at Gardner . . . FlyWeb Insect Management.
Create an insect-free
environment with FlyWeb Insect Management from Gardner.
How FlyWeb Works for You
For use indoors in residential and light commercial
areas.
The FlyWeb light trap attracts flying insects by using
energy-efficient U.V. light. Flying insects are drawn to the
U.V. light and trapped on the web-like adhesive glue
card.
Plug in the FlyWeb and trap annoying flying insects in the
kitchen, living room, hallway, cafeteria and restaurant,
bar, RV or motorcoach.
FlyWeb Insect Management works 24/7 to create an insect-free
environment.
The FlyWeb light trap is compact (3.5" wide x 11"
high) and uses a standard 110V plug-in compatible with any
outlet.
To activate the sticking
power of your glue card, just peel away the protective
plastic film and insert the card into the inside slot at the
back of the FlyWeb light fixture. When the card becomes
full, throw it away and install a fresh card. Glue cards are
non-toxic and safe to handle.
The glue cards use natural
ingredients, are nontoxic and easily replaced when full
(glue card will hold 50-100 flies).
Changing the Glueboard
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Fungus Gnat
Fruit flies are common around the house during late summer and
early fall. All it takes is an overripe banana, tomatoes
ripening on the counter or melon rinds in the wastebasket -- and
like magic, fruit flies appear.
But in
winter? Winter fruit flies often are not fruit flies at all but
rather fungus gnats, which look enough like fruit flies to a casual
observer to be confused with them.
Both
fruit flies and fungus gnats speed the process of decay of plant
matter. Adult fruit flies home in on potential food sources such as
overripe fruit or winter squash past its prime, and lay their eggs
on it. Maggots hatch in a day or two and commence feeding. As the
plant matter breaks down, various fungi start to grow in it. These
fungi -- and others growing in houseplant pots, drains and other
chronically damp places -- are attractive to fungus gnats, which are
every bit as quick as fruit flies to zero in on potential breeding
sites. Numbers can increase quickly.
During
warm months, both of these insects can enter homes from outdoors.
They can easily pass through ordinary window screen. In winter,
management can be more successful because you don't have a
continuous supply of new recruits to deal with.
Focus
control efforts on five areas: fruit and vegetable storage areas
that are open to air (bowls, crocks, bags on floors or in pantries),
open trash containers, potted indoor plants, drains, and damp rugs,
carpets and paper products in the basement or garage.
Leave
out on the counter only as much fruit as you will consume in a day
or two. Wash containers frequently (every other day or so) in hot,
soapy water to dislodge and kill any eggs they might contain.
Line
trash containers with disposable plastic bags. Containers with no
bag or a leaking bag should be washed frequently, especially if the
bottom tends to remain damp or wet.
If you
suspect houseplant pots of harboring fungus gnats or fruit flies,
you can treat the soil with insecticidal soap or incorporate
diatomaceous earth in the soil to kill the maggots. Another approach
is to cut back on watering so the soil dries out between waterings.
Any maggots present in the soil will dry out, and lack of water will
reduce fungal growth and so reduce the food supply for adult fungus
gnats. A third option is a combination of letting the soil dry
between waterings and then watering with a solution of water and
insecticidal soap.
Basements can get extremely damp during the summer. Fabric and paper
will absorb moisture and can become home to populations of fungus
gnats and a host of other creatures, many of which may carry over
into the winter. Use a dehumidifier in the summer to reduce the
dampness, thus eliminating breeding sites for these flies and
reducing the growth of mold.
Household Fly and Gnat traps for flying insects will control fruit
flies and fungus gnats, but this is like treating the symptom rather
than the cause of an infestation. Eliminate potential breeding
habitat as soon as possible.
Measures
that dry or clean out breeding habitat for these insects will also
reduce the fungal spore load inside your home and help freshen the
air. Both of these can enhance health and comfort while greatly
reducing the flying nuisance numbers -- at least until warm weather
comes back and activates outdoor populations.
Fruit
(Small)/Vinegar Flies
COMMON NAME:
Fruit (small)/vinegar flies
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Drosophila spp.
CLASS/ORDER/FAMILY: Insecta/Diptera/Drosophilidae
METAMORPHOSIS: Complete
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INTRODUCTION.
The common name of small fruit fly comes from their small size
and fondness for fruits as egg laying and developmental sites.
The name of vinegar fly comes from the fact they develop in the
briny or vinegar like liquids at the top of imperfectly sealed
canned fruits and vegetables. Note that only flies of the family
Tephritidae can properly be called fruit flies. These are
nuisance pests but may act as disease vectors. The best known of
these flies is D. melanogaster Meigen which has been used
extensively in the study of heredity. They are worldwide in
distribution and are found throughout the United States.
RECOGNITION.
(Drosophila spp.) Adults about 1/8"
(3-4 mm) long, including the wings. Color dull, tan to
brownish yellow or brownish black; eyes usually bright red.
Antenna with feathery bristle (arista). Wing with
coastal vein (thickened front margin) broken twice,
near end of humeral cross vein (short vein perpendicular to
costa near wing base) and near end of vein R1 (1st
vein behind costa). First hind tarsal segment long and slender,
much longer than 2nd segment. Drosophila melanogaster adults
about 1/8" (3 mm) long, tan with abdomen blackish above and
grayish below, and bright red eyes.
Mature D. melanogaster
larvae are about 1/4-3/8" (7-8 mm) long, eyeless, legless,
and tapering towards head from large rounded rear segment, head
represented by 2 dark hooks. Color near white except mouth hooks
black and tips of posterior terminal abdominal spiracles
(breathing pores) yellowish. Posterior spiracles at end of short
stalks/fleshy tubes which are in contact or joined at their
bases. Other species may have posterior spiracle stalks dark
and/or have whorls of setae (hairs) at their ends, and/or have
the bottom side of abdomen with darkened cross bands (setulae).
SIMILAR GROUPS.
(1) Small dung flies (Sphaeroceridae) with 1st hind tarsal
segment broad and shorter than 2nd segment, wing with costar
vein (thickened front margin) broken 3 times (additionally
before humeral cross vein). (2) Humpbacked flies (Phoridae) with
humpback appearance, wing with strong/dark basal front veins
(costar area) and 4-5 weaker (less distinct) unbranched oblique
veins, hind femora flattened. (3) Moth/drain/sewage flies (Psychodidae)
have body and wing veins densely covered with hairs. (4) Fungus
gnats (Mycetophilidae) and darkwinged fungus gnats (Sciaridae)
are slender, long-legged, mosquitolike, with elongated coxae,
wing costa (front margin) unbroken, antenna lacks an arista/bristle.
(5) Other small flies either lack antenna with a feathery
bristle and/or wing with a twice broken costar vein.
BIOLOGY.
Adult females lay their eggs (average about 500) near the
surface of fermenting fruits and vegetables or near the cover
crack of imperfectly sealed containers of such materials. The
eggs hatch in about 30 hours. The larvae develop in the briny or
vinegarlike liquids of the fermenting materials where they feed
near the surface and primarily on the yeast, for about 5-6 days.
Prior to pupation, the larvae crawl to drier areas of the food
or elsewhere. The brown, seedlike sheath containing the pupa
(the puparium) is formed from the last larval skin/exoskeleton.
The newly emerged adults mate in about 2 days. The life cycle
(adult to adult) may be completed in 8-10 days at 85 degrees F
(29 degrees C). Their reproductive potential is enormous.
HABITS.
Small fruit flies are attracted primarily to fresh fruits and
vegetables and those fermenting because of yeast. Materials lose
their attractiveness when they begin to decay because of
bacteria and fungi. Materials commonly infested include bananas,
grapes, peaches, pineapples, tomatoes, mustard pickles,
potatoes, etc. and fermenting liquids such as beer, cider,
vinegar, and wine; some species are attracted to human and
animal excrement. The larvae develop primarily in liquids and
near the surface but seek drier areas for pupation. Newly
emerged adults are attracted to lights. Because of their short
life cycle of 8-10 days, they can exploit many temporarily
available developmental sites such as sour mop and broom heads,
fruit under a table or cabinet, fruit left out in a bowl, etc.
Dishwater and mop water full of food particles can accumulate on
surfaces and/or in crevices and ferment, providing ideal fly
breeding conditions.
Adults tend to
hover in small circles. Because of their small size, many
species are able to penetrate ordinary screens.
CONTROL.
The key to small fruit fly control is sanitation. Elimination of
larval food and developmental sites is mandatory. The presence
of adult flies usually means that larvae are developing in some
nearby fermenting material. If the flies are coming from
outdoors, reducing the screen mesh size can be helpful because
most species can penetrate ordinary screens. The number of
adults can be reduced through the use of insect electrocuters
(light traps), and/or better, the use of baited jar traps with
special tops which allow access but discourage escape. Adults
can be easily killed with an appropriately labeled aerosol, or
ULV application. However, such relief will only be temporary,
lasting only until new adults emerge, unless proper sanitation
has been practiced.
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